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PowerPal™ DC Power Cables let you connect just about
anything to anything
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| The Problem |
The Solution |
PPL-4 - for FT-817 |
"Tongue Top Red Right" |
New!
By popular request, we've
added some new items.
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PowerPal Cables for ICOM
IC-7000, IC-703, and Kenwood TS-480 are now in stock
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PPL-Meter monitors Voltage,
Current, Amp-Hours used and Watts. Great in the field or in the shack.
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PPL-Meter Plus -- all of the
above, plus stores graphs and data on your computer
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PPL-Tool-2 is what we use for
production. A perfect crimp with one squeeze - every time.
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PPL-Tool-3 is a full-cycle
ratchet crimper, specifically designed for Powerpole terminals.
Custom cables are no problem at all. Please e-mail us at
sales@qsradio.com with your requirements.
DC Connections can be a nightmare. PowerPals™ from
Quicksilver Radio Products offer the best solution.
PowerPals™ are designed to solve DC power connection
headaches. We offer them in a wide variety of configurations. Each
features an Anderson Powerpole on one end, and a common DC connector on the
other. Powerpoles are genderless connectors; wired correctly,
they're impossible to connect "backwards".
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The most practical solution to DC power interconnections
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Hot-swappable, color coded, polarized
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No exposed connectors
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No guessing -- impossible to connect "backwards" when wired
correctly
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Connect just about anything to just about anything
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Custom configurations readily available
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High current capacity
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Conform to ARRL/ARES standard and RIGrunner panels
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Our line of Powerpole parts and accessories has
grown to the point that we've divided it between a page for assembled
power cables, and another page for the connectors and related hardware.
On this page you will find cables to fit
almost every modern Amateur Radio and almost any power source you can
think of.
Click here to see our complete line of
Powerpoles and related hardware including a variety of mounting options,
crimp tools, distribution panels, meters, housings many different colors,
and more.
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Part # |
Description |
Wire |
Use for |
Price |
Purchase |
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PwrBlok |
5-way Powerpole Splitter in a machined lexan block.
Rated at 50A+ |
N/A |
Custom lexan
block is virtually indestructible. Rated at better than 50 Amps.
Uses our own heavy duty brass bus-bars.
Mates with "standard" 15-30-45A Powerpoles |
50.00 |
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PwrBlok Jr. |
Handy 6-way splitter.
Rated at 20A |
4"
#16 |
You can never
have enough outlets. Put them where you need them with this handy
gadget. Compact size and quality construction. |
30.00 |
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PPL-10PK30 |
Package of 10 Sets. Picture shows one set. |
N/A |
Package contains 10 Red & 10 Black Housings, and 20 terminals (30 Amp).
Far and away the most popular set. Mates with 15A and 45A sets.
Click here for all of our Powerpoles and
related hardware |
10.00 |
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PPL-43 |
DC Power cable adapter OEM power supply socket
to Powerpoles |
#14 |
Use your OEM power supply with the popular
Anderson Powerpoles. Great for feeding DC distribution panels like
the RIGRunners.
Has the "standard" 6-pin Molex type female socket (found on most recent HF
radios) on one end and Powerpoles on the other. |
18.00 |
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PPL-42 |
ICOM IC-7000 Plug |
3' #16
(x2)
Wire |
Add your own fuses, or connect to a fused source
or distribution panel. |
18.00 |
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PPL-40 |
Kenwood
TS-480 Plug |
3' #16
(x2)
Wire |
Add your own fuses, or connect to a fused source
or distribution panel. Two cables required for TS-480HX 200W model. |
18.00 |
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PPL-41 |
ICOM
IC-703 Plug |
3' #16 Wire |
Add your own fuses, or connect to a fused source
or distribution panel. |
18.00 |
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PPL-30 |
4-Pole Snap-in panel mount for 2 sets of Powerpoles |
N/A |
Mount Powerpoles in your own panel, power
supply, go-kit, etc. Requires
1" x 1.25" hole. Includes retaining pin.
Many more mounting options here |
5.00 |
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PPL-Kit1 |
Powerpole Starter Kit
Everything you need to begin making your own cables. |
N/A |
Kit
contains 1 RIGrunner 4005 panel, 50' of #16 and 30' of #12
Red/Black zipcord, crimping tool, & 10 sets of 30A Powerpole connectors.
Total value $148.00 |
125.00 |
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PPL-27 |
Voltage Tester |
1' #16 Wire |
Banana Plugs in
Parallel with Powerpoles. Use with most DVMs to monitor voltage. |
15.00 |
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PPL-28 |
Current Tester |
1' #12 Wire |
Banana Plugs in
Series with Powerpoles. Use with most DVMs to monitor current. |
15.00 |
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PPL-4 |
FT-817 plug |
2' #24 Wire |
Same Plug as Original (Also fits Yaesu
Handheld Radios) |
12.00 |
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PPL-7 |
"Y" with
FT-817 and Z-11 plugs |
2' #24 Wire |
By Popular Request -- one cable runs both |
16.00 |
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PPL-25 |
ICOM/Kenwood HT Plug |
2' #24 Wire |
Fits Recent ICOM and
Kenwood Handheld Radios |
12.00 |
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PPL-8 |
5.5 x 2.5mm
Jack |
2' #24 Wire |
Fits many Wall Warts, use for battery charging, etc |
10.00 |
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PPL-18 |
5.5 x 2.5mm
Plug |
2' #24 Wire |
Fits LDG
Z-11 Tuner, many others |
9.00 |
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PPL-21 |
5.5 x 2.1
mm Jack |
2' #24 Wire |
Fits MFJ,
Jameco, and other supplies. Use for battery charging, etc |
10.00 |
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PPL-22 |
5.5 x 2.1
mm Plug |
2' #24 Wire |
Fits many
MFJ accessories, Elecraft K1 & K2, Older ICOM HTs (like IC-02AT), others |
9.00 |
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PPL-24 |
HF Radio Fused 6-Pole
Connector |
8' #12 Wire |
Fits nearly all
recent 100W Radios. Very similar to OEM Power Cords. See above
for IC-703 and TS-480 cables. |
25.00 |
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PPL-9 |
FM Mobile
Fused "T-style" Connector |
15' #14 Wire |
Fits most recent FM
radios. Very similar to OEM Power Cords. Comes with spare
radio side connector. |
20.00 |
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PPL-17 |
Fused Cig.
Lighter |
3' #16 Wire |
See the notes below |
11.00 |
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PPL-26 |
Cig Lighter
Receptacle |
3' #16 Wire |
Great for charging
cell phones |
10.00 |
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PPL-5 |
Small
Alligator Clips |
1' #16 Wire |
Connect to Gel-Cells, Power Supply, etc |
9.00 |
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PPL-6 |
Large
Alligator Clips |
3' #12 Wire |
Connect to Car Battery, etc. |
12.00 |
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PPL-29 |
"Y"
with Large Alligator Clips |
3' #12 Wire |
Connect to Car Battery, etc. |
18.00 |
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PPL-10 |
"Trailer
Connector" |
1' #14 Wire |
Sold in Pairs |
13.00 |
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PPL-12 |
.250"
Disconnect |
1' #12 Wire |
Fits Most SLA "Gel Cell" Batteries |
9.00 |
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PPL-13 |
ARRL/ARES
Std. Molex |
1' #16 Wire |
Sold in Pairs (M/F) only |
14.00 |
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PPL-19 |
Banana Plug |
1' #12 Wire |
Fits Standard Banana Jacks
Used on many newer power supplies |
12.00 |
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PPL-14 |
1/4" Ring
Terminals |
5' #12 Wire |
Fits Most Large Power Supplies |
9.00 |
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PPL-15 |
1/4" Ring
Terminals |
10' #12 Wire |
Fits Most Large Power Supplies |
12.00 |
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PPL-2 |
5 Ft.
Extension |
5' #12 Wire |
Powerpoles on Both Ends |
9.00 |
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PPL-3 |
10 Ft.
Extension |
10' #12 Wire |
Powerpoles on Both Ends |
12.00 |
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PPL-1 |
"Y" -- 2
into 1 |
1' #16 Wire |
Run 2 Devices From One Power Source |
10.00 |
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PPL-20 |
"W" -- 4
into 1 |
1' #16 Wire |
Run 4
Devices From One Power Source |
17.00 |
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PPL-11 |
Blank End |
1' #12 Wire |
Roll Your Own |
6.00 |
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PPL-Tool-3 |
Deluxe Crimp Tool |
N/A |
Specially Designed to Crimp 15, 30, and 45 Amp Powerpole Terminals
More crimp tools and Powerpole Hardware available
here |
45.00 |
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PowerPals™ conform to the standard used by most ARES and other
emergency communications groups nationwide. If you look at the picture (right above),
you can see that the silver contact "tongues" are at the top with the red
housing on the right. This is the most widely used configuration and we
encourage you to follow it. "Tongue Top Red Right" is an easy way to
remember it. Here are a few more tips:
We
VERY STRONGLY RECOMMEND
using PowerPals (and any other Powerpole accessories) exclusively for 12
Volt (nominal) DC power connections. If you decide to use Powerpoles for
something other than 12V DC, please do yourself and others a favor and configure
them so that they cannot mate with standard cables. If you fail to do
this, sooner or later you will make a mistake, causing damage to
equipment and possibly harm to yourself and others.
As
with any other electrical cord, always unplug your PowerPals by gripping the
connector, not the wire.
The National Electrical Code specifies #12 Wire as good for 20 Amps, #14 Wire for 15 Amps, and #16 for
10 Amps. We do not recommend exceeding these limits. 100 Watt HF
Transceivers generally draw about 20 Amps max. 50 or 60 Watt FM
Transceivers draw about 15 Amps max.
For several reasons we discourage you from running higher powered mobile rigs
(for example, 50W 2M or dual band FM rigs, ICOM 706 or Yaesu FT-100, etc.) with
our cigarette lighter adapters. The '706 and FT-100 draw approximately 20
Amps on Transmit; FM 50 Watt rigs typically draw 15 Amps. Even a 15 Amp
draw is likely to blow the fuse protecting the lighter circuit. We also
understand that there is some risk of a voltage spike on starting and stopping
the engine, so we recommend connecting your radio after the engine starts, and
disconnecting it prior to shutting the engine off.
For mobile installation, we do recommend using #12 or heavier wire direct
(through a fuse) to the battery. Running the cable, especially in
newer cars, is not always an easy task. Places that install auto stereo
and alarm systems are often willing to do the job. Expect to pay somewhere
in the neighborhood of $50.00 -- not cheap, but they have the tools and
expertise to do it right.
There have been any number of articles in the Amateur Radio magazines dealing
with this subject, and we don't consider ourselves experts on the subject.
We will pass along three rules, though:
1. Make sure you put a fuse as
close as possible to the battery.
2. Make sure you put a fuse as
close as possible to the battery.
3. Make sure you put a fuse as
close as possible to the battery.
If
you're not sure whether, or where, to put a fuse in the wire, refer to
rules 1-3 above. Even if your radio came with a fused power cord, the fuse
is probably at the radio end of the cable. This is done (we presume) to
allow the cable to be fished through the firewall. Think for a minute
about what would happen should a short develop anywhere between the
pre-installed fuses and the battery. A "Car-B-Cue" can really ruin your
day. Radio Shack (and likely many other stores) carry small fuse holders
that are easy to mount. Make sure to get the right sized fuse, and keep a
few spares in the glove box.
Always check for correct polarity
before connecting to unfamiliar equipment!
We all know that Red wire is always used for DC + and Black wire for DC-.
Somewhere out there is a guy or gal who doesn't know that. If you don't
check for correct polarity before connecting to someone else's equipment, you're
almost certain to meet him/her. You'll then see a small, or maybe large,
puff of magic electronic smoke. The smoke is what makes radios work, and
when you let it out they stop working.
Please check back often as we expand our
line. If you have a need for something we don't yet offer, please let us
know. We welcome your suggestions and we'll do our best to help you.
Need more info? E-mail
info@qsradio.com
Thanks and 73,
John Bee, N1GNV
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